Prepare the Base
In this lawn, there were 2 different bases listed below the cobbles. Part of it was existing concrete, and the other part had previously been pavers. On the concrete, the only prep work that needed to be done was a basic pressure wash. For the area beyond the concrete that formed an extension, base rock was brought in to form a solid structure (Image 1). The base rock was laid down so that it actually rose about an inch above the existing concrete, then a gas-powered compactor brought it down so it was just a little higher than the concrete (Image 2).
If you are starting in a bare soil area, dig down to give yourself a couple inches of base and allow for half the height of the pavers to determine your last patio height.
Put sand over the whole area and utilize a rake to spread it out about an inch thick. This will certainly form a cushion for the cobblestones.
Lay Cobblestone Pavers
The various colors and styles of pavers consist of straight, round and fanned-out designs. For the straight type, start at one end and lay them on top of the sand in straight rows, working your method to the other end of the space. Making use of wire snips, get rid of the two smaller cobbles at the end of each mat of pavers so the mats fit together. At the end of the row, leave the smaller pavers on the mat to function as a straight edge.
Condense the Pavers
Do not make use of a compactor over pavers that have actually been laid on top of concrete. If you have laid them on top of base rock however, lightly spray the cobbles with water and go over them with a compactor. This will push them down into the base rock but not all the way.
Mix the Grout
For this job, we made use of a special type of epoxy that, when blended with sand, produces a grout that solidifies once it dries.
Utilize a portable cement mixer to mix the grout. Pour in one bag of sand, the color of which will certainly be the last color of the grout. Then add one container each of the two-part epoxy. Lastly, fill each of the containers with water and add that to the mixer also. Pouring the water into the containers permits you to determine properly as well as to utilize any remaining epoxy.
Let the grout mix for about three minutes, up until the consistency resembles pancake batter.
Pour and Spread out the Grout
Wet down a wheelbarrow (so the grout won’t adhere to it) and gather the grout. Make use of a foam squeegee with a broom handle to spread the grout, filling out all of the gaps in the cobbletone. It solidifies in about 10 minutes.
When you have most of the grout spread into the gaps, go over the same location with another squeegee to clean the continuing to be grout from the top of the pavers. When you’ve finished the entire location, use a stiff-bristle push broom to clean up any remnants again. Let the brand-new cobblestone patio dry for five hours before strolling on it.
Knowing how to construct basement storage racks will conserve you cash and offer storage you never knew existed. Although basements are typically haphazardly filled with vacation decors, and devices, these items can all be neatly stacked on durable racks. Doing so produce a less messy, more arranged basement and does not cost much.
Basement storage racks been available in many sizes, varieties, and shapes, none which might work for a particular basement. The option, in such a case, is to construct your very own. Storage racks likewise are available in numerous materials, such as plastic, metal, and inexpensive wood. These structures may not be adjustable and will certainly cost more than constructing wooden shelves to match a particular function and place.
Several sheets of.75-inch construction-grade plywood will be enough to provide shelving for a whole basement wall. You most likely won’t need more than 3 sheets. Shelves can be set up between existing 2×4-inch boards, however additional lumber will certainly be had to support them.
Step 1 – Construct the Shelves
Take your very first sheet of plywood and eliminate 3 racks, each being 12-inches deep. Develop cleats to attach to the studs and rest the racks on them. These cleats must be 12-inches large to support the rack. They need to be 6-inches tall where they are connected to the 2×4-inch boards, and 2-inches where they meet under the edge of the rack. The range in between conventional studs in a basement is around 16-inches, however you may have to make modifications if that is not the case.
Procedure from the floor to the point where you want to install the first shelf. Mark the 2×4-inch board on each side. Apply woodworker’s glue to the stud and the mounting cleat. Hold the supporting cleat in place and screw in 3 8×2-inch screws to attach the cleat to the stud. Do so on all of the studs holding the very first shelf.
Step 2-feet from the top of this shelf to the bottom of the next shelf and repeat the procedure for mounting the cleats and setting the shelf on top of them. Lastly, put the shelf on the cleats. Thoroughly mark lines where the stud fulfills the rack, and cut notches for the shelf to fit in between the studs. Connecting the shelves to the cleats is optional.
Step 3 – Finishing the Shelves
Although construction-grade plywood is suggested for this task, you can also use a top quality piece of plywood and complete it with either stain and varnish or repaint. Whatever alternative you pick, the plywood will certainly withstand stains and dirt if it is dealt with.
Begin by sanding the edges and surfaces with 100-grit sandpaper. Finish sanding with 220-grit paper and wipe the wood with a fabric dipped in mineral spirits. Next off, use a stain or a half-and-half coat of varnish and mineral spirits. Let it dry extensively and re-sand your racks very lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe it once more, then apply a thin coat of 100 % varnish. Give the varnish to dry.
Drifting wall shelves attach to the wall by methods of hidden supports, instead of the more conventional brackets or hangers, and offer an attractive feature for any room which needs shelving. They look streamlined smooth and are simpler to put in tight corners than their conventional equivalents. Fitting these racks is easy once you understand the key to setting up the covert cleats.
Step 1 – Check the Wall
Find the area of the studs in the wall prior to you start making holes. Utilize a stud finder to find these; mark them plainly. The rack has to be supported by the studs, so work out the length of the rack and mark that in the offered spaces between the studs. You need to now have a clear idea of where you desire your floating wall shelves to be located.
Step 2 – Make the Shelves
Each rack is in fact a long, flat 5-sided box. Utilizing your saw, cut 2 pieces of plywood to the right length. These are the leading and bottom of the shelf. Cut another strip of plywood 1 inch large and the length of the shelves. This is the front of the shelf. Cut 2 strips 1 inch broad and 1/4-inch less than the depth of the rack. These are the sides. Sand them down thoroughly. Drill pilot holes so the wood doesn’t divided, then glue and screw the boxes together.
Step 3 – Finish the Shelves
You want to do this prior to you hang them so you can easily deal with them without having to prevent getting paint or stain on the wall. Sand the racks down and varnish them, or you may add a layer of paint to the wood before the varnish. You can repaint the whole system one color to match the design of the space, or you might repaint various racks different colors if you desire something more attractive.
Step 4 – Build and Hang the Bracket
The bracket connects to the wall and will certainly be the sixth side of the box. Cut a piece of 1×1 to the length of the open end of the rack. This is the ledger board that holds the shelf to the wall. Set the ledger against the wall where you marked the studs. Make use of a level making sure it is even. Drill pilot holes in the ledger and after that screw it through the wall and into the studs.
Step 5 – Mount the Shelves
Put some adhesive onto the back of the rack and around the ledger board. Push the rack onto the ledger board, concealing the ledger inside the box of the rack. Drill pilot holes through the shelf into the ledger board and after that screw it in location. Leave the glue to dry.
Examine that the drifting wall shelves are firmly sealed before you put anything important upon them.
Although some people choose to hire a plumbing contractor to do all the work of a bathroom remodel, we always suggest using a tiling company to give you the most professional job and a more professional finish. Of course there are some who have the know-all and experience to do this themselves. So if you are one of those people, here are a few easy steps to follow to be able to install a tile shower shelf.
Installing a shower tile rack is a fantastic way to add racks to the shower room without needing to purchase or develop brand-new bathroom shelves. These racks are not only functional and ornamental; they conserve a great deal of space too. The most convenient method to set up a shower tile shelf is to set up diagonally cut tiles in the corners. Corner tile shelves are a lot easier to install due to the fact that they do not need cutting a hole in the wall. Follow these steps to set up a shower tile rack.
Step 1 – Preparation
It is advised that 12-inch tiles be made use of for shelving. The shower tile shelf has to be strong and steady in order to hold any restroom stuff firmly without breaking. Thinner and smaller tiles might not provide the very best strength for the job, so ensure to utilize the advised size.
Plan where to install the shower tile shelf prior to the tiling project. Figure out at what height it is to be set up. It can be installed after the very first row of tiles is set, or after 2 rows are set in place. Determine whether additional shelves are to be set up.
Step 2 – Cutting the Tiles
Create a design template for the tile rack from cardboard. The tile shelf can be cut diagonally to form a triangle or cut in a round manner to form a quarter-circle shape. Use the cardboard design template as a guide to cut the shelf using a tile cutter.
Step 3 – Anchoring the Shelf to the Wall
To guarantee that the tiles and the rack are anchored to the wall securely, use thinset as an adhesive. Install the very first set of tiles first at the bottom of the wall horizontally and add another row if required. To anchor the shelf to the wall, add an adequate amount of thinset on the edges of the rack using a trowel. Thoroughly place the shelf in the preferred corner. Guarantee that the rear edges make complete contact with the walls. Somewhat slope the shelf to the ground in order to prevent water from occupying the surface area after installation.
Make use of a finger to smooth the thinset that oozes out of the sides of the rack. Then use a damp sponge to clean the surface of the shelf prior to installing the next set of tiles.
Step 4 – Finishing Touches
Set up the next set of tiles above the rack to sandwich the shelf in place. Add more shelves to the leading corners if desired in the same manner. Grout around the shelves and permit the mortar to dry.
Tiling a corner shower device is a difficult task since of the area restrictions. Because corner showers are meant to save space, tiling them requires the do it yourself to handle a little working area inside the shower. Before setting the tiles, it ought to be kept in mind that the corner shower system needs to be set up with a shower pan and liner along with backer boards. Without the backer boards, the tiles will certainly not have a foundation where to be set. Right here are directions on how to tile a corner shower unit.
Step 1 – Planning
Plan the tiling initially. The wall can be set up with larger tiles in order to make the tiling procedure a lot quicker. For the floor, never make use of large tiles due to the fact that it will impact the slope. Use smaller sized tiles instead. Doing this will certainly permit the water to slope toward the drain. When tiling the corner shower device, constantly start with the floor before continuing to the walls.
Step 2 – Setting the Mortar Bed
Mix the mortar with water to the correct consistency. Always follow procedures on the item description for guidance. Prior to applying the mortar bed, check if the drain is well-covered. Apply the mortar and allow it to slope slightly towards the drain. Give the mortar to dry for 24 hours.
Step 3 – Tiling the Floor
Figure out the number of tiles needed for the floor tiling and cut the tiles if needed. Prepare thinset mortar by following the maker’s guidelines. Purchase pre-mixed thinset in order to make the procedure simpler. Apply the thinset accordingly on the floor and install the tiles piece by piece. Await the thinset to cure. Clean the extra grout with moist sponge and wait for the grout to treat prior to continuing with the walls.
Step 4 – Tiling the Walls
Start by marking the bottom row with a pencil. Mix an enough quantity of thinset mortar just enough for the bottom row tiles. Utilize the trowel to use the thinset at the bottom and lay each tile accordingly. To offer constant spacing between the tiles, location spacers in between them. Wait for the bottom row of tiles to set for about 6 hours or so prior to setting up the succeeding rows.
Continue with the being successful tiles by following the fundamental treatment of applying thinset and laying the tiles. Use spacers on all sides of the tiles to come up with consistent spacing. For the top row, cut the tiles accordingly. Permit the thinset to cure for about 48 hours prior to grouting. Wait for the grout to cure, and you now have a tiled corner shower system.
A ceramic floor is one of the most resilient, appealing and low-maintenance floors available. Although it might be a lengthy, grueling task, the completed project will certainly be worth it. Below is a standard outline of the installation steps.
Get rid of the old flooring and baseboard molding and take a look at the sub floor. The sub floor must be at least 1 1/8″ thick and have no versatility. It is best to install cement board on top of the plywood sub floor to guarantee its stability.
Step the square video footage of the room be multiplying one side of the room by the other. For instance: a 12 by 12 space is 144 square feet. Then include 10 % to that number making up for tile breakage. The final number is the amount of tile had to finish the task. In this circumstances the last number will certainly be 158.4 square feet.
Discover a Starting Point
Start tiling in the middle of the space so that any little, cut pieces wind up on the edges of the room. To discover the middle of the space snap a chalk line from the center of opposite walls. The lines should cross in the middle of the room, marking your starting point.
Laying the tile
Lay out a line of tile along each of the chalk lines before using mortar. Get a concept of the pattern prior to committing.
After choosing a design, mix the mortar per the manufacturers instructions. Using a notched trowel, spread out a thin coat of mortar in a 2×2 foot section. Place the tiles thoroughly on the mortar and use tile spacers to keep the distance between each tile accurate. You need to use a notched trowel for two factors: 1. the ridges that it produces in the mortar suction the tile to the floor and 2. the air area in between the ridges help the mortar dry. To guarantee that the tiles are level use a rubber mallet and tap the tile into location. Use a level to double check your work.
The most accurate method to cut tile is with a damp saw. A damp saw works like a table saw, however has a supply of water working on the blade to keep it cool. A tile cutter is also an option, but there is a propensity to using them and it will take some practice to get an ideal cut.
Let the tile and mortar dry for at least 24 Hr prior to grouting. Mix grout according to the producer’s directions. Press the grout into every crevice at a 45 degree angle utilizing a grout float. Wipe off any excess with a tile sponge. Rinse the sponge frequently. Work in small areas. Try not to obtain excessive on the tile, considering that it is virtually difficult to get it off as soon as dried. There will be a haze left on the tile, however that can be washed off when the grout is cured.
Dry and Seal
It may sound amusing, but grout requires some wetness to dry correctly. To cure it correctly wash the floor with a sponge mop once a day for 3 days. Use the sealer after the third day to the grout only.
Put the base board back on and you’re done! Now stand back and appreciate your work!
A basement sauna is a relaxing and healthy way to invest a couple of minutes of free time with guests or family members within the walls of your own house. What’s more, you can develop your very own basement sauna and save a package. All you will require are a couple of fundamental tools, materials, the persistence to see the task through, and a set of valuable directions. Here’s how to do it.
Step 1 – Planning Your Sauna
Your sauna will certainly require walls, so strategy to build it in a corner where you already have 2 walls. Doing this will certainly conserve you both time and product. To cut expense for heating and product, as well as to conserve time and work, plan to develop a small sauna.
Step 2 – Framing Your Sauna Wall
Frame all of your walls and include a 4-inch area in between your sauna wall and the exterior concrete wall. In addition, when you hang your sauna door, build the door frame with a 4-inch area between the door’s bottom edge and the basement floor.
Step 3 – Installing Your Heater Power Lines
Choose beforehand the size of the heater you’ll be setting up. If you have a smaller sauna, you might get by with one that runs with 120-volts. To heat a huge area, you may require a 240-volt heater.
Now is the time to run the power line to the heater. You can conserve cash by doing it yourself. If you choose employing an electrical expert to run it, make sure to let him understand exactly what voltage you ‘d such as to prepare for.
Step 4 – Installing Your Sauna Walls
Install.5-inch plywood on the ceiling, floor, and exterior/interior walls of your sauna. Stain or repaint the plywood.
Step 5 – Install Cedar Wood on Your Interior Walls
Connect your cedar boards over the plywood. Use your router or bench saw to produce tongue-and-groove edges on these boards. Doing this enables you making tighter fits that will much better keep heat in your sauna. To attach the cedar boards, utilize screws that are zinc-plated.
Step 6 – Installing Your Heater
Put your heater either near a corner of the sauna or in the middle of the floor. Make sure that it is developed for use in a sauna and that it can produce temperature levels of 185 ° F.
Building a new home can be a difficult procedure and selecting the right contractor is the most best significant feature in determining the success or failure of your home. I suggest you become involved with selecting materials, determining facilities and ultimately commun-icating those decisions with each builder who is bidding on the project you have.
Before you talk to anyone, do your projects brief:
First, get all the resolution makers together. Take in everyone husbands, wives or even children. Write down your complete wish list. Think in terms of general priorities first. Make a list of any practicalities that could affect the project collect photos from magazines or websites. Agree your budget now, but recall allowing yourself a little wiggle room for the unforeseen. Think about whether you should hire a professional to manage your project. How long will my home take to complete’? Comparing cost to benefits.
Now talk with builders hear are the questions to help you with this important decision:
a) What is your policy on service after the sale and do i receive it in writing’?
b) How long do you guarantee your workmanship’?
c) How do you control your sub-contractors if they have to come back after end’?
d) Is the sub-contractor work guaranteed, if so, by the subcontractor or by you’?
e) What is your policy on change orders’?
f) Do you guarantee a completion date, if so, how’?
g)Are you licensed, if so, by whom and what are the requirements’?
h) How long have you been in the business and how long on your own’?
i) Can you provide me with names and phone numbers of the four most recent homeowners you built for’?
j) do you have a finished home i can see’?
k) Do you have insurance, liability and workman’s compensation’?
I) May i see an example of the contract and specification sheet that i will be asked to sign’?
m) What does your clean up include?
n) Will you provide me with listed statement and if so, how often during construction’?
o) In what way do you handle lien wavers’?
p) What sets you apart from your competi-tion and why should i choose you’?
q) Can i choose my own suppliers’?
Weigh the builder’s answers against what is necessary to you and what is appropriate under your circumstances. Then, utilize the information you’ve gathered to make your final decision You will have to live with the choices you make concerning the construction of your new home long after the builder has gone.
WELCOME! SALUTE! They say blue collar jobs are jobs for the low-class people but I say it’s not Imagine a life with just white collar jobs, boom! we have no manual laborers. Doctors can’t build houses and construct tall buildings , lawyers can’t plant fruits, vegetables and everything that we eat , IT specialist can’t install and repair elevators or control subway trains, even though they’re called expert in the field of computer technology, what do they know about elevators much more repairing and installing them? or controlling subway trains. Point is, everybody has their unique specialty and ability. Life is precious, it something that we should value.
It’s no secret that construction field is indeed dangerous. According to Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), one out of ten construction workers are injured every year and that sixty percent (60%) of construction workplace injuries occur within the employee’s first year of employment. The leading cause of workers death were falls, followed by struck by objects, electrocutions and caught-in/between objects. if these “fatal fours” were avoided it will save almost 480 lives in America per year Most accidents can be prevented by educating and taking simple safety working procedure. However, not all countries or even states promotes and educates their workers about construction safety tips. In the some third-world countries construction safety tips are not that well promoted, thus the increase of deaths of workers per year.
There are lots of websites and books that tackles about construction safety tips. Well, find those sites no more! Because I got it all for you! All you need to do is scroll down. Below are five construction safety tips, compiled and reorganized from sites and books. i hope you’ll learn something.
Tip 1: Dress properly. You’re working in a dangerous field not a fashion show or a trip to the beach. The attire can be uncomfortable and hot but its better than loosing a part of you right?
Tip 2: Know the purpose of your tools. You may say its basic and that I’m joking, but let me tell you this -people tend to forget the basics and that forgetting the basics means the faster way of injuring your workers and or yourself.
Tip 3: Be alert on scaffolds. Never use damaged scaffolds especially on bad weather and please don’t leave any debris
Tip 4: Trenches! 3 things to check before entering trenches
1. A person must be with you, in case something happened you have somebody looking out